We’re Not The Only Thing Evolving


Photo by: Team Traveller

High fructose corn syrup is evil, we should eat sugar. No, all sugar is evil, we shouldn’t eat any of it. No, raw fruits and honey are good, and agave nectar is better. All clear?

There’s a lot of debate on the Internet lately about fructose vs. sucrose, and whether it makes a difference or not. It usually starts with a claim about high fructose corn syrup, then moves into some technical discussion of how the body processes the different kinds of sugars.

Inevitably someone will suggest that since man didn’t have access to refined sugar until relatively recently — in evolutionary terms — that we aren’t adapted to it. Or more specifically, that we’re adapted to sucrose but not to fructose. Or vice versa, depending on who’s making the point.

You know what inevitably doesn’t come up in these arguments? The fact that our food is evolving, too. And it seems to do it faster than we do.

Remember Michael Pollan?

You can’t read about food today and not know about Pollan, the author of The Omnivore’s Dilemma, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto, and most recently Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual. But before those, he wrote The Botany of Desire: A Plant’s-Eye View of the World.

This one isn’t as well known. It produces more a sense of “Huh, that’s interesting,” instead of the “Oh my God, I have to change the way I eat!” that you get from his more recent works.(If you don’t have the time to read it, the DVD is great.) The basic idea is that the plants we cultivate — potatoes, apples, tulips, marijuana — are using us just as much as we are using them.

He isn’t suggesting that plants have intent, but being attractive to humans is a huge survival advantage. If we like a plant, we protect it, feed it, and most importantly, we improve it. Marijuana in particular has changed so much in the last 30 years that it’s almost not recognizable as the same plant that fueled the counterculture revolution of the 1960s.

Wasn’t this supposed to be about sugar?

Were coming to that part. But first there was the question Pollan addressed about Marijana. The active ingredient, THC, binds to receptors in the human brain affecting memory and perception. Scientists couldn’t understand why we would have evolved a sensitivity to a compound that is that specific, and doesn’t seem to offer any advantage to our survival.

They finally figured out that we need to forget. If you remembered every face you saw on the subway, every sad emotion you ever felt, everything you ever experienced, it would be overwhelming. There is a chemical in our brain that helps us forget the things we don’t need. This discovery has led to advances in post traumatic stress treatments and other areas.

The point is, we didn’t evolve a sensitivity to a psychoactive plant. The plant evolved a chemical that humans like.

Starting to see how this is about sugar?

The whole argument over whether we evolved to eat sugar is missing the point. Sugar — sucrose, fructose, glucose … fruits, honey, cane … natural, refined — is not something that exists in one unchanging form that we either evolve to eat or not. Sources of sugar change in response to what we want.

The body didn’t evolve the craving for fruit because fruit ripens once a year and we have to eat all of it while it’s available. (See here or here for how this argument looks.) Rather, the fruit-producing plants evolved to produce something that humans like. The plant doesn’t care if the human dies from diabetes in 30 years, so long as its seeds get spread before next year.

I’d like to wrap this up with a nice, tidy recommendation for how we should eat. But we haven’t had the right conversation yet. As long as we’re talking about what humans evolved to do, we’re not asking what need the sugars evolved to fulfill. The plants know something about what we like: We like sweet. But why?

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The Science of Bread


Photo by: Jimee, Jackie, Tom & Asha

People have been baking bread for a long time. Wheat for bread — or maybe beer, but they made the beer from the bread, so same thing — was the reason people invented agriculture.

After all that time we’ve ended up with thousands of variations on flour, salt, water and yeast. You can follow any of these recipes and do pretty well. But to be able to modify a recipe, or troubleshoot when a loaf doesn’t come out right, you’re going to need to know a bit of the science behind bread.

And that means you need to understand gluten, the protein that gives bread its springiness and lets it rise. Rather than write my own version, I’ll point you to this great explanation of gluten, and what happens when you knead bread.

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School lunches have gotten worse

School lunches have never had a reputation for high quality. But when I was in school I remember seeing them actually cooking back there on the other side of the steam trays. Okay, they weren’t always cooking anything I liked, but it was … okay.

Except for the pizza. Man, my junior high and high school had awesome pizza. And they introduced me to pizza soup. Theirs was just tomato soup from concentrate poured over croƻtons and shredded mozzarella, but I took the idea and made something great.

All of which is a big lead up to that picture you see above. According to the Washington D.C. School District, that’s lunch.

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Here’s the cover

Now that the book is done and ready for preorder, I thought I’d share the cover.

Book cover for Starting From Scratch

Book cover for "Starting From Scratch"

Yes, that’s me. And yes, I’m using a potato masher to stir the dough.

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“How To Roast A Lamb” Preview

I’ve just barely started reading How to Roast a Lamb by Michael Psilakis, and I have to say I already like him. He says in the introduction to the book that even though he usually cooks with stock, most of the recipes in the book are made with water … because that’s how his mother made them. And, because he wants people to be able to make them at home.

In this book, wherever possible, I offer optional shortcuts by doing things like using really good store-bought products (like roasted red peppers in a jar) in lieu of making everything from scratch. If using water instead of stock and store-bought peppers instead of homemade will get you into the kitchen to cook recipes from this book, I’m all for it.

It’s so great to see a high-profile chef saying something that I’ve had to explain to people before: Yes, the best food comes from the best ingredients. But cooking anything is almost guaranteed to be better than heating up something out of a box.

I’m looking forward to seeing what else he has to say.

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